A Whole Lot of Latkes
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For many people, the latkes of our youth are preserved in memory as utter perfection. Thanks to those golden memories of eating one after another on Hanukkah, some of us are still joyfully making them from the tried-and-true recipe given to us by our parents and their parents before them. (Or another kindly soul.) Even if that recipe is the one on the back of the box. No shame there. Good, is good, is good. There’s no reason to change a thing.
Yet, while a hot from the pan potato pancake is a beautiful, not to mention delicious, tradition – and for that we can all be thankful – that doesn’t mean we don’t sometimes want to mix things up. It’s natural. A quick glance around the internet and one can see proof of that. You can find every conceivable variation on the oil fried delight. From the most basic to the caviar topped (a personal favorite) to the amusingly trayf. Shrimp on a latke? Oy vey. But do whatever you like.
Here, we explore the ultimate classic (aka, my mother’s recipe) and five variations to spice up your world. They were all made in batches that serve four people but can easily be doubled, tripled, or whatever you and your family need. There’s a vegan version for those of you avoiding eggs, and one that is essentially a reinvented aloo tikki, and the most gorgeous shade of marigold.
According to Erika Kerekes of Santa Monica, via Long Island, “Latkes are pancakes, you can make them out of anything. I’ve made them out of carrots, sweet potatoes, zucchini and cheese. I consider anything round that you fry in a frying pan with oil – not butter – a latke. I use the term very generously.”
If this is your first or 41st Hanukkah, there are lots of ways to make sure your latkes come out perfectly every time, but remember, it takes a little bit of practice. The seasoned (ha ha) chef knows the smartest move of all is to wear an apron. After that, if you’re using potatoes, getting as much moisture out, buy squeezing the shreds, is key to a crispy result. Also, always sprinkle the latke with salt the second they come out of the pan. The salt will stick to the hot oil. Using a cast iron pan is also always advisable.
It’s practically a fact that if you make latkes in a cast-iron pan you won’t need to re-season it for another year. Or ever, even. That’s the other miracle oil gives us. And like the Maccabees biding their time in the mountains, patience is also essential.
Put them in an air fryer or a waffle maker though, and it’s just not in the spirit of the day. The oil is the whole point!
In testing these recipes, that we sincerely love and hope you’ll try, we recruited a few seasoned tasters and one newbie to the joyous scene.
Trying a latke for the first time, Los Angeles artist Luke Cheuh said “I would definitely say it’s like a hash brown patty, crispy, soft, savory and delicious.
And the possibilities for variation makes them fun. My favorite are theones with Old Bay seasoning.”
Another taster, 5-year-old Eva solemnly nibbled on every one and through a glistening smile declared “It’s yummy being Jewish!”
We couldn’t agree more.
BY THE BAY LATKES
While typically associated with a Maryland crab boil, Old Bay seasoning was actually created by German Jewish immigrant, Gustav Brunn. It’s a tasty combination of spices that work beautifully in this preparation. Try it on salmon, it’s fantastic. It does contain salt, so this recipe doesn’t call for any additional to be added.
Makes 14 – 16 / Serves four
Vegetarian, dairy, contains gluten
INGREDIENTS:
For the latkes:
• 1 ½ pounds russet potato, peeled
• ¼ cup all-purpose flour
• 1 egg
• 2 Tablespoons Old Bay seasoning
• 1 teaspoon garlic powder
• Oil for frying
For the sauce:
• 1 cup sour cream
• 6 each cornichon, chopped, plus 1
• teaspoon of brine from the jar
• 1 stalk of celery, chopped
• 1 tablespoon capers
• 1 teaspoon brown mustard
• Hot sauce and celery leaves to serve
DIRECTIONS:
- Using a food processor or a box grater, shred the peeled potato.
- Place the shredded potato in a clean cloth, (or your hands. I just use my hands over a strainer) gather up the edges and then squeeze the shredded potato to get out as much liquid as you can. The dryer the better.
- Add the squeezed potato to a bowl and stir in the flour, egg, seasoning and garlic powder.
- In another bowl, combine the sour cream, cornichon and brine, celery, capers and mustard. Taste and adjust seasonings. Let rest in the refrigerator while you fry the latkes.
To fry:
- Line a baking sheet with paper towels, or a rack, and set aside.
- In a large cast-iron skillet, heat oil poured in to ¼ inch deep. (This varies by pan.) Gently heat over medium for a few minutes.
- Raise the heat slightly and add your potato mixture in small mounds, making sure they don’t touch. Press down with a spatula to slightly flatten.
- They should start to sizzle the second they hit the oil. If not, wait until the oil is a bit hotter then begin again. Let the latkes fry for about 4 minutes, then give them a little clockwise twist and continue to fry for 2 minutes before flipping and repeating for 6 more minutes. How thick your latkes are will determine how long they take to cook. What you’re looking for is uniform browning. Never let your oil get too hot, so occasionally adjust the burner when the latkes seem to be browning quickly.
- As they finish, remove from the pan and place on the paper towel lined sheet pan to cool slightly.
- Serve topped with the sauce and some celery leaves for color
GINGER SESAME LATKES WITH MISO APPLE BUTTER
This latke is a revelation. It takes a perfect pairing of apples and ginger and adds a Japanese flavor profile that is a total wow. This was the absolute favorite of our panel of tasters because it is such a wild combination and yet works on every level. The ginger brings a tiny bit of heat, while the miso mixed with apple butter adds a certain umami element that’s beyond compare. If you really want to try something new, this is the one.
Makes 14 – 16 / Serves four
Vegetarian, gluten free
INGREDIENTS:
1 ½ pounds russet potatoes, peeled
2 tablespoons minced ginger (I use the pre-chopped that comes in a tube) 1 egg
¼ cup rice flour
1 tablespoon black sesame seeds Pickled ginger for garnish
For the apple butter:
1 cup apple butter (I used Laura Ann’s Granny Superstar Apple Butter)
2 tablespoons white miso (or more, to taste)
DIRECTIONS:
- Using a food processor or a box grater, shred the peeled potato.
- In a large bowl, stir together the potato, ginger, egg, rice flour and sesame seeds. Set aside to rest.
- Meanwhile, whisk a tablespoon of miso into the apple butter and taste. If it doesn’t seem too salty to you, add the rest. Refrigerate while you fry the latkes.
To fry:
- Line a baking sheet with paper towels, or a rack, and set aside.
- In a large cast-iron skillet, heat oil poured in to ¼ inch deep. (This varies by pan.) Gently heat over medium for a few minutes.
- Raise the heat slightly and add your potato mixture in small mounds, making sure they don’t touch. Press down with a spatula to flatten slightly.
- They should start to sizzle the second they hit the oil. If not, wait until the oil is a bit hotter then begin again. Let the latkes fry for about 4 minutes, then give them a little clockwise twist and continue to fry for 2 minutes before flipping and repeating for 6 more minutes. How thick your latkes are will determine how long they take to cook. What you’re looking for is uniform browning. Never let your oil get too hot, so occasionally adjust the burner when the latkes seem to be browning quickly.
- As they finish, remove from the pan and place on the paper towel lined sheet pan to cool slightly.
- Serve the latkes with the miso apple butter, pickled ginger and additional sesame seeds.
SMOKEY PAPRIKA LATKES
There is a certain place in many Jewish family’s hearts for paprikash, that brick red stew that somehow evokes comfort and joy at the same time. Or maybe that’s just me. It’s a thick rich blend of paprika and sour cream, so of course it lends itself perfectly to this stunning latke. Try a mix of smoked and sweet paprika or just use one or the other. Either way, this is geshmack.
Makes 14 – 16 / Serves four
Vegetarian, dairy, gluten free
INGREDIENTS:
- 1 ½ pound russet potato, peeled
- 1 egg
- ½ red onion, small dice
- 1 teaspoon sweet paprika
- 4 ounces (one small jar) diced pimento
- and reserve some for garnish
- 1 tablespoon smoked paprika
- Pinch of kosher salt
- Sour cream
- Cayenne pepper
- Oil for frying
DIRECTIONS:
- Using a food processor or a box grater, shred the peeled potato. 2. In a large bowl, stir together the potato, onion, pimento, paprikas and a nice pinch of kosher salt. To fry: 1. Line a baking sheet with paper towels, or a rack, and set aside.
- In a large cast-iron skillet, heat oil poured in to ¼ inch deep. (This varies by pan.) Gently heat over medium for a few minutes.
- Raise the heat slightly and add your potato mixture in small mounds, making sure they don’t touch. Press down with a spatula to flatten slightly.
- They should start to sizzle the second they hit the oil. If not, wait until the oil is a bit hotter then begin again. Let the latkes fry for about 4 minutes, then give them a little clockwise twist and continue to fry for 2 minutes before flipping and repeating for 6 more minutes. How thick your latkes are will determine how long they take to cook. What you’re looking for is uniform browning. Never let your oil get too hot, so occasionally adjust the burner when the latkes seem to be browning quickly.
- As they finish, remove from the pan and place on the paper towel lined sheet pan to cool slightly.
- Serve garnished with sour cream, a dusting of additional paprika (or try cayenne for a kick) and a scattering of pimento.
BEE STING LATKES
Makes 14 – 16 / Serves four
Vegetarian, dairy, contains gluten
The idea for this sweet and spicy latke came from the famed pizza of the same name created and popularized at Roberta’s restaurant in Brooklyn. The idea is simple really. Make something you want to eat and then double down by drizzling honey and chile flakes on top. It’s a brilliant combination that works on pizza, but is somehow even better on a latke. If you like spicy-sweet, this is for you. But don’t worry, it isn’t cloying, just nicely balanced and a fun twist. For this latke we omitted eggs and instead went with potato starch to bind.
INGREDIENTS:
- 1 pound orange sweet potato, peeled
- 1 small russet potato
- 1 brown onion, peeled and trimmed
- ¼ cup matzo meal
- 2 teaspoons potato starch
- Salt and pepper to taste
- Honey, chile flakes and apple sauce to serve Oil for frying
DIRECTIONS:
- Using a food processor or a box grater, shred the peeled potato.
- Add the potatoes to a large bowl and then grate or shred the onion.
- Stir together the onion, matzo meal and potato starch and season with salt and black pepper.
To fry:
- Line a baking sheet with paper towels, or a rack, and set aside.
- In a large cast-iron skillet, heat oil poured in to ¼ inch deep. (This varies by pan.) Gently heat over medium for a few minutes.
- Raise the heat slightly and add your potato mixture in small mounds, making sure they don’t touch. Press down with a spatula to flatten slightly.
- They should start to sizzle the second they hit the oil. If not, wait until the oil is a bit hotter then begin again. Let the latkes fry for about 4 minutes, then give them a little clockwise twist and continue to fry for 2 minutes before flipping and repeating for 6 more minutes. How thick your latkes are will determine how long they take to cook. What you’re looking for is uniform browning. Never let your oil get too hot, so occasionally adjust the burner when the latkes seem to be browning quickly.
- As they finish, remove from the pan and place on the paper towel lined sheet pan to cool slightly.
- When slightly cooled, top the latkes with a bit of apple sauce, then drizzle some honey on top, add a tiny pinch of chile flakes and a little kosher salt.
ALOO TIKKI LATKES WITH FIERY GREEN ZHUG
Makes 14 – 16 / Serves four
Vegetarian, dairy-free, contains gluten
Biting into one of this gloriously yellow latke may confuse you. Is it a latke or is it the best aloo tikki ever? It’s a combination really. The basic formula is exactly the same as the traditional Indian dish, but reimagined as a highly spiced latke and served with a zhug that is for sure hot. If you want it a touch less spicy, make sure to remove the seeds from the jalepeno. We love the kick though, and left them in. This one is for sure for the festival of lights because it will make you shine.
INGREDIENTS:
- 1 ½ pounds russet potatoes, peeled
- 1 onion, peeled and trimmed
- 1 cup cauliflower florets
- 1 Tablespoon cumin seeds or ground (or a mix)
- 1 teaspoon turmeric
- 1 Tablespoon ground coriander
- 1 cup cilantro leaves, rough chopped
- ½ cup frozen peas
- 1 egg ½ cup all-purpose flour
- For the Zhug
- 2 bunches cilantro, stems removed
- 3 – 6 cloves garlic, trimmed
- 1 large jalapeno, stem removed
- 2 teaspoons cumin
- 2 teaspoons coriander
- 1 Tablespoon fresh lemon juice
- ¼ cup olive oil Salt to taste Oil for frying
DIRECTIONS:
- Using a food processor or a box grater, shred the peeled potatoes, then the onion and the cauliflower. 2. In a large bowl, combine the remaining latke ingredients. Let rest while you make the zhug.
- To make the zhug, combine all the ingredients in blender and puree. Taste and add additional salt or lemon juice to your taste. Set aside while you fry the latkes.
To fry:
- Line a baking sheet with paper towels, or a rack, and set aside.
- In a large cast-iron skillet, heat oil poured in to ¼ inch deep. (This varies by pan.) Gently heat over medium for a few minutes.
- Raise the heat slightly and add your potato mixture in small mounds, making sure they don’t touch. Press down with a spatula to flatten slightly.
- They should start to sizzle the second they hit the oil. If not, wait until the oil is a bit hotter then begin again. Let the latkes fry for about 4 minutes, then give them a little clockwise twist and continue to fry for 2 minutes before flipping and repeating for 6 more minutes. How thick your latkes are will determine how long they take to cook. What you’re looking for is uniform browning. Never let your oil get too hot, so occasionally adjust the burner when the latkes seem to be browning quickly.
- As they finish, remove from the pan and place on the paper towel lined sheet pan to cool slightly.
- Serve topped with zhug.
PERFECT LATKES (CLASSIC)
Makes 14 – 16 / Serves four
Vegan (without sour cream)
This may be the simplest latke ever, but it’s also the one that uses the most technique. To really make them work, you need to squeeze out the potatoes and gather up the starch to toss back in. When the fried latkes have that starch, what results is a pure, beautiful creation that will be crackly on the outside and has a creamy essence-of-potato interior.
INGREDIENTS:
- 1 onion, peeled and trimmed
- 1 ½ pounds russet potatoes, peeled
- Salt
- Oil for frying
- Sour cream and apple sauce to serve
DIRECTIONS:
- Peel and grate the onion. Place in a bowl and set aside.
- Peel and grate the potatoes.
- To extract the potato starch, squeeze out as much liquid as you can out of the potatoes over a large bowl. Place the potatoes in another bowl and let the potato water rest. As it sits, the starch will settle to the bottom. It should take about 3 minutes.
- Carefully drain off the water in the bowl, leaving behind the thick layer of starch.
- Stir the potatoes and onions into the starch. Let rest for 1 minute and then fry.
To fry:
- Line a baking sheet with paper towels, or a rack, and set aside.
- In a large cast-iron skillet, heat oil poured in to ¼ inch deep. (This varies by pan.) Gently heat over medium for a few minutes.
- Raise the heat slightly and add your potato mixture in small mounds, making sure they don’t touch. Press down with a spatula to flatten.
- They should start to sizzle the second they hit the oil. If not, wait until the oil is a bit hotter then begin again. Let the latkes fry for about 4 minutes, then give them a little clockwise twist and continue to fry for 2 minutes before flipping and repeating for 6 more minutes. How thick your latkes are will determine how long they take to cook. What you’re looking for is uniform browning. Never let your oil get too hot, so occasionally adjust the burner when the latkes seem to be browning quickly.
- As they finish, remove from the pan and place on the paper towel lined sheet pan, and season with salt immediately.
- When slightly cooled, serve with sour cream and apple sauce.
