Sufgoniyot Are Not Jelly Donuts
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I love carbohydrates.
Almost all carbohydrates.
But especially those carbohydrates we could label “Jewish carbohydrates.”
It’s been that way since I was a child in our house on the South Shore of Long Island in the east end of Suffolk County when my reward for sitting through Friday night dinners was a linzer tart from Stanley’s Bakery. Now linzer tarts are not solely a Jewish delicacy, but for me the almond cookie, smothered with tart-sweet raspberry jam, topped with another cookie, and the whole thing covered in an obscene layer of powdered sugar, was and is the taste of Shabbat.
Then there’s rugalach (my favorite in case you’re putting a shipment together is cinnamon-walnut) and nothing really can beat a salt bagel filled to overflowing with whitefish salad. These carbohydrates compete for my attention with the simplicity of a bialy (with that onion poppy seed center) topped with a schmear of cream cheese and really good Nova Scotia smoked salmon. But what propels me faster to carbohydrate heights is a good noodle kugel and my mother’s noodle kugel defines what a kugel should be. (It is adapted from that of Evelyn Burns, who was one of the matriarchs of our small synagogue in Bay Shore, Long Island- recipe below.) Food kindles memory – and this kugel is the taste of childhood celebrations of Shabbat, Rosh HaShanah, and Yom Kippur Break-the-Fast and the best part of that kugel: the slightly burnt corners.
And then the jelly donuts became part of our vocabulary. I really don’t remember when it happened, but at one point “sufganiyot” became a part of our Hanukkah table. “Sufganiyot” made their way from 15th century Germany, then to Po[1]land, and eventually to Israel, where they became associated with the oil-centric holiday of Hanukkah. The word “sufganiyot” is said to be derived from the Hebrew word for sponge “sfog” and the Talmudic word for a spongy dough “sfogga.”
Regardless of where they came from or the etymological derivation, nothing prepared me for the variety and decadence of sufganiyot here in Israel. I’ve lived in Jerusalem for 8 years, and each year these donuts become more and more extravagant.
Although I sometimes crave the simple raspberry filled jelly donuts of Blinkie’s Donuts in Woodland Hills, California, nothing really compares with the variety and artistry of the sufganiyot that arrive in bakeries here in Israel to enhance the celebration of the Festival of Lights.
The sufganiyot begin to appear on bakery counters very soon after the beginning of the Hebrew month of Kislev (this year the new month begins on November 5th) and they disappear almost immediately after Hanukkah is over. I’ve tasted more sufganiyot than I can imagine and within a couple of bites I know if the donut warrants merit or not.
So, what are the criteria for great sufganiyot? First, let’s start with the donut. The dough needs to be a yeast dough (believe it or not, some bakeries try to fake this step) and I’m always looking for a balance of flavors: yeasty, sweet, a hint of vanilla, maybe some citrus.
Next, of course, is the filling. First rule: skimpy fillings lose. Plain and simple. And yes, I’ve had donuts that weren’t filled. In all honesty, what is that? Just fried dough with some jam or icing on top. But there needs to be a healthy ratio between the size of the donut and the amount of filling. Too much, and the filling overwhelms the donut; too little and you’re basically eating fried sweet dough with a molecule or two of jam.
The third quality I look for is the quality and originality in the fillings. Jam from gallon sized industrial bakery size jar just will not do. But a homemade strawberry filling (and yes, you can taste the difference) earns a lot of points. Sufganiyot filled with in interesting or creative combinations also rise to the top of the Sufganiyot Academy Awards. Finally, there are extra points given for sheer creativity and decorations on the outside of the donut that enhance the experience.
This year’s tasting will begin in a couple of weeks (I need to lose a couple of kilos first) and you can follow the good, the great, and the best on my facebook and Instagram pages (@evankent). In the meantime, here are some of the outstanding specimens from the Sufganiyot Olympics 2020.
Cookies and Cream from Roladin Bakery (throughout Israel). Roladin is known for its consistently fresh, tasty, and somewhat architectural donuts. Each year they outdo themselves with flavorful and innovative creations.
Lemon meringue from Gourmandises (Jerusalem) is one of the best soufganiyot I’ve ever eaten. A trio of greatmness from Gourmandises (Jerusalem): Chestnut puree, lemon meringue, and an unforgettable creme brulee.
Cafe Hillel (throughout Israel) not only has good coffee, sandwiches, and salads, but during Chanukah, they roll out some really good donuts. My favorite: salted pretzel: sweet, salty, crunchy, creamy- all in one little donut.
Cafe Kadosh (Jeruslaem) is so famous for its sufganiyot that the bakery has now published a cookbook dedicated to these amazing treats. Here is my favorite: semi-sweet chocolate with filling overflowing onto my hands and face. Of course, I ate this entire donut
Show Time (Tel Aviv) might win first place for breakfast cereal flavored donuts. I tried Captain Crunch and it was like eating a bowl of-you guessed it – Captain Crunch. If you’re in Tel Aviv do not pass this up. And the package looks like a cereal box!
